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by Winnie So
6 November 2003 -- Arrival at Masai Mara
We had breakfast in the lodge before heading down to the airstrip to catch our charter flight to Nanyuki for a scheduled flight down to Masai Mara, which was a bit of a bumpy ride. Governor’s Camp was the second stop in the Mara. Simon introduced himself as our driver. The Mara is a huge contrast to Loisaba. For one thing, the landscape is different. The savannah plains of the Mara is usually what comes to mind when you mention safari. Another noticeable difference between Loisaba and the Mara, aside from the fact that there’s a lot more big game, is that there are a lot more vehicles. On the way to the camp, we saw at least five other vehicles. Phil tells us that what we’re seeing is nothing compared to the peak months (November being off-peak because of the short rains. Although, we hadn’t really seen that much rain. And when there was rain, it was indeed short.)
We arrive at Il Moran, the smallest of the Governor camps, greeted by Patrick who tells us that we’re the only guests at the camp. Il Moran has 10 tents, which can sleep 20 people, compared to the main Governor’s Camp, which sleeps nearly a hundred. The tents at Il Moran are very spacious and spread out from one another. Each tent has its own porch with a small dining table on one side and reading chairs on another. Inside the tent is a desk, a huge king-sized bed and sitting area. The en-suite bathroom is also very spacious with double sinks, an old-fashioned, claw-foot bath tub, rainforest shower, toilet and bidet. There is running hot and cold water, but there is no electricity. In the evening, kerosene lamps light up the tent, some rather romantic mood lighting.
Here in the Mara, the afternoons get quite hot -- above 30C. After a hearty lunch, we’re feeling a bit lazy and retire to our tents for a nap and shower before meeting again at 3:30pm for our first game drive in the Mara.
In the Mara, there’s a lot of big game. On the drive to the camp, we already spotted hippos. On the afternoon drive, we see lots of elephants and zebras. We come upon a pair of lionesses and a lion. As we’re watching them take their nap in the shade from the afternoon sun, the lion suddenly gets up and mounts one of the lionesses. Phil starts to explain the details of lion mating behaviour. We sit there and watch them for an hour. In that time, they mate three times and the other lioness, well-rested and hungry, has walked off in search for food. We’re told by Phil that when lions are mating, which can last a few days, they will do nothing but mate, not even eat.
Back at the camp, we freshen up and head to the bar for drinks before dinner. I had just discovered a wonderful ginger ale by the name of Stony Tangawizi (Tangawizi being Kiswahili for ginger). So I ordered a Stony and Pimms, very refreshing after all the afternoon activity.
Dinner was served in very civilised fashion, underneath the stars with the sounds of hippos serenading us. Speaking of stars, they really do shine brightly. But being a city person, I could not visualize or find the various constellations that Phil excitedly rattled off. In the dark, I wouldn’t have a hope of finding my direction by the North Star or the Southern Cross (Incidentally, both stars play a very important role in the Chinese armada’s jouneys of 1421; as it was one of their missions to chart the precise position of the North and South poles so that future navigators could precisely calculate latitude.), but I did manage to master finding the northern direction by the bunny’s ear in a full moon. Yes, should I be so lucky to be lost in the woods or the bush round about a full moon, I would be able to find my way home.
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